From the Contra Costa Times, August 30, 2006: E.J. "Phair's malty Marzen a medal-worthy lager" by Bill Brand
STANDING OUTSIDE an industrial space on the edge of Concord recently, sipping a glass of just-fermented, German-style lager, I wondered what the European brewers of the early 19th century, who perfected the styles we love today, would think of this scene.

One thing is certain: They would be amazed at the way the styles have evolved. The brewery is E.J. Phair Brewing, and the beer is E.J. Phair Marzen -- it's our Beer of the Week. It's an excellent American interpretation of a style perfected in the 1840s by Munich brewer Gabriel Sedlmayr at Spaten and Vienna brewer Anton Dreher.

The malty, toasted caramel flavors won over Bavarians, and it soon became the official beer of Oktoberfest, the gigantic, Munich beer bash that begins Sept. 16 and draws about 6 million fans.

Former NFL kicker J.J. Phair of Danville founded E.J. Phair, named for his grandfather, in 2000. Phair and head brewer Morgan Cox have won a string of awards, including a couple of gold medals at the Great American Beer Festival in Denver.

Marzen hasn't scored -- so far. The competition is intense. Personally, I think this is a beer to prize. It's a brilliant copper with a creamy, tan head and a toffee-malt nose. Taste is malty, a bit complex and there's a tangy, hoppy note in the background that lasts and grows into a long follow.

Cox says the beer is 6.5 percent alcohol by volume, a bit stronger than many Marzens. It's made with a blend of malts including "crystal 75," a dark-kilned barley malt that adds body and sweetness, plus Munich malt; hops are Tettnanger and spicy Saaz.

Last year, J.J. Phair opened a pub at 2152 Salvio St. on Todos Santos Square in Concord, about a mile from the 975 Detroit Ave. brewery, where all Phair beers are on tap. Marzen is bottled and can be found at stores with discriminating taste in beer in the East Bay.

From the East Bay Express, December 5, 2005: "Comfort on Tap" by Jonathan Kauffman
"Brewpubs like EJ Phair, with food as wholesome as the atmosphere, are making beer-drinking a reputable pastime. Oddly enough, that doesn't seem to strip the fun out of it. Just as long as you hand over the keys once it's time to leave..."
Read the complete review

From the Contra Costa Times, May 6, 2005: "E.J. Phair brewpub is getting the details right" by John Birdsall
"It's one of many small surprises at E.J. Phair Alehouse, a new brewpub restaurant anchoring Concord's Todos Santos Plaza. But unless you take your eyes away from the A's game unwinding in liquid crystal on one of the TV screens -- and focus instead on the margins of your plate -- you're likely to miss them.

Though it's only been open two months, this place feels instantly loved. It's not hard to see why..."
Read the complete review